2007 Extrafine Wool Bomber Jacket with Detachable Scarf
Size 46 (oversized): Best for an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M or a slim IT 50 - 40 Chest - M.
Raf Simons blouson with scarf from A/W 2007-2008. In excellent used condition; all interior pockets remain sewn shut. Made in Romania. RRP: ¥197.400 (£1194)
A/W 2007-2008 was seen by critics as one of Simons's most conservative collections at that stage of his career. Traditionally proportioned silhouettes and restrained styling emphasised structure and masculinity. At the same time, however, an impressive range of unconventional and experimental materials gave the collection a kind of ornate futurism that could only be described as avant-garde. Tim Blanks writes:
'Simons noted that "hands are important to create the shape of the future." [...] Fierce elbow-length gauntlets [...] were a jarringly futuristic counterpoint to tweeds, leathers, and knits that were just about the most traditional clothes Simons has yet created, but that was no accident. One of the designer's aims this time was to make traditional things more contemporary. A tweed coat zippered open down its seams to reveal a nylon underlay [...] and superb woven-wool jackets in an intense midnight blue were glazed as if by starlight in deep space. They embodied the essential paradox of Raf Simons's work: sleek futurism here, romantic melancholy there.' (our emphases)
In our view, this bomber jacket was one of the season's most interesting pieces. Its design captures the ingenious mix of new and old that can be observed throughout the collection, resulting in a timeless yet directional garment. To achieve this, Simons has reworked elements of 20th century aviator blousons and bomber jackets while adding idiosyncratic elements that are uniquely his own. The jacket has a zip front that leads to a short MA-1-style collar. A detachable scarf attaches to the back of the collar and overlaps to secure to the torso with two buttons. This interesting feature was exclusive to A/W 2007 and A/W 2008. When unbuttoned, the scarf drapes beautifully over the back like a deconstructed hood. The cut is fitted with slightly elongated sleeves for an easy and streamlined silhouette.
In addition to its looks, the jacket is one of the most luxurious Raf Simons pieces that we have encountered. The piece is crafted from a gorgeous extrafine worsted wool flannel with a barely perceptible black-on-black check pattern. This exceptional fabric has a smooth brushed texture and a wonderful soft drape, and certainly justifies the jacket's rather high original retail price. Furthermore, as the photos make evident, every detail has been impeccably executed. The fabric's faint pattern has been precisely matched throughout the jacket's various panels. The patch pockets on the front have a rectangular shape with ornate welt openings, while the collar is decorated with linear topstitching. The back is finished with two pleats on each side that add subtle volume. The interior is constructed like Simons's blazers, with a smooth viscose sateen lining and two pockets. All seams are precisely executed throughout and demonstrate the jacket's quality.
Playful yet understated, this impeccably crafted piece demonstrates that Simons can create hyper-luxurious garments while remaining true to his idiosyncratic vision. We love this piece and consider it to be a true highlight from one of Simons's most under-appreciated periods as designer.