2007 Silver-Printed Cotton Short Darted Shirt with Double Collar
Size 46: Best for a slim IT 46 - 36 Chest - S or an IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Raf Simons coated cotton shirt from A/W 2007-2008. In excellent used condition with minor fading. Made in FYROM.
A/W 2007-2008 was seen by critics as one of Simons's most conservative collections at that stage of his career. Traditionally proportioned silhouettes and restrained styling emphasised structure and masculinity. At the same time, however, an impressive range of unconventional and experimental materials gave the collection a kind of ornate futurism that could only be described as avant-garde. Tim Blanks writes:
'Simons noted that "hands are important to create the shape of the future." [...] Fierce elbow-length gauntlets [...] were a jarringly futuristic counterpoint to tweeds, leathers, and knits that were just about the most traditional clothes Simons has yet created, but that was no accident. One of the designer's aims this time was to make traditional things more contemporary. A tweed coat zippered open down its seams to reveal a nylon underlay [...] and superb woven-wool jackets in an intense midnight blue were glazed as if by starlight in deep space. They embodied the essential paradox of Raf Simons's work: sleek futurism here, romantic melancholy there.' (our emphases)
Like other pieces from A/W 2007, this piece is a quintessential Simons design realised in a unique fabric that was developed for this collection. Its details date back to Simons's first collections; his signature diagonal darts create a subtly aggressive element while giving shape to the torso. The fabric is a fine cotton poplin that has been printed with silver pigment to give it a coated appearance with pronounced irregularities. Over time, these irregularities will become more pronounced and interesting. The silhouette is very fitted and certainly reminiscent of Simons's classic tops from the late 1990s, with 3/4-length sleeves and a short body.
The expert proportions of the design are further demonstrated in its details: Transparent plastic buttons and a second collar add an extra layer of visual depth to the piece. The collar is small for a clean look, while the hem is straight, giving the shirt a sharp silhouette when worn untucked. On the back, long darts create a sharp silhouette while a narrow yoke further reinforces the design's dynamism. The sleeves have barrel cuffs finished with a wide single pleat.
Featuring a sharp silhouette and a unique fabric treatment, this otherwise traditionally crafted shirt demonstrates the sophistication of Simons's mid-'00s menswear.