2003 Heavy Moleskin Cotton Chesterfield Coat with Bondage Cuff Straps (Men's version)
IT 46 - 36 Chest - S: Can also fit an IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.
Helmut Lang tailored coat from A/W 2003-2004. In good used condition with minor fading. Made in Italy.
A/W 2003 is seen by many as Helmut Lang's definitive 'bondage' collection. A diverse variety of inspirations -ranging from airforce uniforms and Vivienne Westwood's Seditionaries to classic evening tailoring- were refined into a unique collection that combined subcultural aggression with refined sartorialism. The season's conceptually rich designs have become part of contemporary fashion history, influencing a wide range of designers in the process. That said, effortless simplicity maintains a key position in Lang's tailored designs, and the evolution of his work is manifested in subtle, elegant and often unexpected ways. This classic Chesterfield coat is one of Lang's most iconic pieces, encapsulating his visually resolute and streamlined approach to power dressing. Since its introduction for A/W 1993, it was re-issued every season for men and women until the label's demise (pictured: A/W 2003, S/S 2004, A/W 2003, A/W 2004).
The cut is timeless and flattering with strongly padded shoulders, a contoured body and fitted sleeves. The sharp silhouette is enhanced by the thick moleskin cotton fabric. One of Lang's signature outerwear materials, this substantial fabric has a dense twill weave with a sheared surface. This results in a fabric that is warm and hard-wearing while maintaining an exceptionally soft texture that ages wonderfully over time. Furthermore, its heavy weight gives the coat a strongly structured drape that complements the clean tailored lines of the design. The front has a concealed three-button closure, while the back has a short buttoned vent. The cuffs are finished with Lang's signature elastic bondage cuff straps that can be removed.
The execution of this piece is excellent with beautiful attention to detail. The undercollar features hand-sewn felt in a marbled hue that looks beautiful when worn up. The concealed placket is hand-finished with a separate lining. All buttons are made from matte tonal resin in line with the piece's minimalist aesthetic. The interior is fully lined in silky gold viscose that feels pleasant against the skin, while all pockets are lined in smooth white cotton. The lining is attached by hand on the shoulders and hem, while its edges are adorned with sartorial pick stitching. The interior is finished with two buttoned pockets.
This classic piece is a spot-on example of Lang's contemporary tailoring. Its effortless aesthetic, pleasant textures and precise lines make for the perfect everyday staple without compromising on style.