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1997 Heavy Rubberised Canvas Half-Raglan Raincoat with Layered Yoke Panel

Helmut Lang

1997 Heavy Rubberised Canvas Half-Raglan Raincoat with Layered Yoke Panel


IT 52 - 42 Chest - L: Can also fit an IT 50 - 40 Chest - M or a large IT 48 - 38 Chest - S/M.

Helmut Lang rubber-coated mac coat from A/W 1997-1998. In excellent used condition with minor signs of wear; with attached replacement buttons. Made in Italy.

For A/W 1997 -the first winter collection of his year-old Helmut Lang Jeans label-, Lang took the denim-based explorations of S/S 1997 to new heights of sophistication. While the runway show focused on the clean lines of Lang's tailoring, it is the streetwear that is now considered as some of his most covetable output: This collection introduces the iconic bulletproof vest, Lang's renown take on the M-51 military parka and several groundbreaking fabric treatments for denim. Rubber finishes were present throughout the collection's offerings, most often in the form of linear applications decorating tops and outerwear. 

This coat represents the collection's more sartorial side: While its design is inspired by traditional menswear, its futuristic fabrication and shape lend it a sophisticated aggression that is nothing but contemporary. The front features a concealed button closure, leading up to a large stand-up collar. A double-layered yoke construction creates a directional top-heavy silhouette, while the shoulders have an intricate 'half-raglan' shape: the front is set-in like typical sleeves while the back has a raglan construction. The two techniques are disrupted on the top of the shoulder by a seam that reaches the cuffs. While adding a sophisticated point of interest, this intricate construction affords a greater range of movement. The fabric is structured cotton canvas that has been coated with a thick layer of polyurethane. This treatment gives the fabric a sculptural drape and rubber-like surface with a dull shine.

The precise and streamlined finishing of the piece complements its clean lines. Reinforced diagonal pockets complete the waist, while the cuffs feature military-inspired panels without buttons. The back has a single vent. The interior is fully lined in soft viscose sateen and there is a large single pocket. The buttons are crafted from tonal resin, complementing the dark aesthetic of the piece.

Overall, it is fair to conclude that this piece epitomises Lang's sartorial approach in the 1990s. Innovative textiles, sharp lines and subcultural influences are subtly brought together to create exciting garments that remain extremely relevant to the sensitivities of contemporary fashion. From the avant-garde to the high street, numerous labels and designers have appropriated Lang's work while failing to capture the substance of his vision. In our view, this makes his original work even more enticing. 

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