2002 Virgin Wool Coat with Leather-Trimmed Collar and Bondage Strap
IT 48 - 38 chest - S/M: Can also fit an IT 50 - 40 chest - M.
Helmut Lang tailored coat from A/W 2002-2003. In brand new condition without tags. Made in Italy. RRP: $2270 (£1359).
The A/W 2002 collection epitomises the high sophistication of Lang's final years, and we consider it as one of his very best seasons. The sobriety of evening wear and classic tailored shapes was subverted by the use of deconstructed cut-outs and intricately layered jersey skeletons, while lustrous patent leather and exotic skins such as perch and stingray lent an avant-garde edge to the luxurious designs. At the same time, hallmark Helmut Lang materials such as heavy moleskin cotton, raw denim and rubber elastic tape highlighted the collection's self-referential character, which drew elements from Lang's military streetwear collections from the 1990s. The overall result was an eclectic celebration that brought together disparate influences to create a sophisticated and thoroughly modern wardrobe. A novel take on Lang's classic Chesterfield coat, this handsome piece captures the designer's severe and streamlined approach to classic menswear. Upon a closer inspection, luxurious leather trims and bondage-inspired details on the interior add a distinctive elegance.
The coat's design is classic Helmut Lang, featuring his signature concealed closure. The cut is fitted and elongated, with enough room for a blazer. Instead of Lang's classic slim lapels, the front buttons to the top and is finished with a unique two-piece stand-up collar (one of the season's recurring details). Subtle patent leather piping gives the outer panel a strong shape and a defined outline, while five buttons can be used to remove it or attach it in different ways. On the interior, Helmut Lang's iconic long bondage strap with a metal D-ring adjustment adorns the waist. The aesthetic is timeless and minimalist, and is given further substance though the coat's exquisite fabrication: a robust whipcord twill made from 100% virgin wool gives the coat an almost sculptural structure, with a flawless drape. Furthermore, the fabric's dense weave lends it a very deep black hue while making it highly water-resistant. It is one of the most luxurious wool fabrics we have handled in Helmut Lang's menswear, and it will age wonderfully over time.
The quality of this piece is excellent, demonstrating Helmut Lang's flawless tailoring. The concealed button placket has an impressive minimalist construction with a separate lining. Its execution is sharp and gives the coat a luxurious finish. The interior is fully lined in a beautiful grey/brown viscose that feels pleasant against the skin, while all pockets are lined in smooth black cotton. The sleeves are finished with four buttons, while the back has a buttoned vent. Overall, all seams are flawlessly executed inside and out, giving the coat an effortless precision.
A luxurious and timeless piece, this coat combines Lang's hard-edged minimalism with beautiful finishing and subversive detailing. While being an excellent piece for casual outfits, its sober precision will definitely impress in situations demanding formal or evening attire.