1997 Classic Blazer Jacket with Stripe Detail
IT 40: Best for a Women's UK 8/US 6, a UK 10/US 8 or a Men's IT 44 - 34 Chest - XS.
Helmut Lang tailored blazer with contrasting nylon application from S/S 1997. In brand new condition with attached replacement buttons. Made in Italy. RRP: $1140 (£742)
Helmut Lang's S/S 1997 collection was a tremendous success that further solidified his status as the quiet avant-garde spirit of his generation. Focusing on the refinement of his personal vision rather than seasonal novelty, Lang showed his characteristic mix of clubwear-inspired separates, sharp suiting and sophisticated eveningwear. Subtle decorative applications brought forth an element of unforeseen abstraction: Solid rubber stripes and satin sashes in bold colours evoked graphic modernity; deconstructed elements and abbreviated shapes were wrapped around the models' bodies, confusing and enticing the viewer; nylon trims gave a sport-inspired urgency to sober fitted lines. Lang's characteristic jersey dresses were restricted by straps, while silk trims in unexpected places redefined conventional luxury.
This classic blazer is largely inspired by Helmut Lang's menswear pieces from this period: precise, streamlined and visionary. Crafted from a luxurious stretch cotton blend with a matte surface, the jacket has a two-button closure with medium lapels. A contrasting stripe made from shiny yellow nylon decorates the waist, creating a simple yet avant-garde point of interest. This was a prominent motif throughout the '97 collections and has become one of Lang's best remembered details. The cut has a narrow shoulderline, slim sleeves and a semi-fitted body that produces an easy yet elegant silhouette. As such the piece can also be worn by men.
Subtle details and flawless finishing complete the clean design. The jacket's front has darts and a precisely canvassed construction that gives it an effortless structured drape, while the back is finished without a vent for a more sober look. The stripe application on the waist is deliberately left unattached on the pocket areas, ensuring that it does not restrict their capacity. The undercollar features a wool felt insert; the cuffs have three buttons. The interior is fully lined in smooth viscose sateen and has a single buttoned pocket. All buttons are crafted from tonal black resin, complementing the minimalist aesthetic.
A timelessly modern piece, this blazer will add a refined element to any classic outfit. Its aesthetic and cut remain as cutting edge as when it was showcased in 1996, and exemplify Lang's paradigm-shifting approach to power dressing. In addition, it is in unworn condition which makes it an exceptionally rare find. Strongly recommended.